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2018-2021 Tundra 5.7L Custom Features - Patches

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  • Originally posted by Wynnded View Post

    Ya, I'd like to report a sentence that ended in an incomplete prepositional phrase....🤣

    Naw, this is really very cool work.
    The link in the main post has been updated with the complete patch

    Comment


    • Originally posted by VFTuner View Post

      The link in the main post has been updated with the complete patch
      Truckin' right along! HA! See what I did there? Truuuuckin'...

      I'll be here all week...
      2011 RCSB S/C'd 5.7L AWD Tundra
      Tesla > Edison

      Comment


      • Wynnded
        Wynnded commented
        Editing a comment
        Is that sarcasm? I ❤️ sarcasm. 😁
        Last edited by Wynnded; 05-04-2021, 02:00 AM.

      • tonered
        tonered commented
        Editing a comment
        It might be, but I don't think so. Have you seen my jokes!?

      • Wynnded
        Wynnded commented
        Editing a comment
        Oh, I believe you...🙄

    • Anyone know the status of the tundra packs? Purchased a pack for a client on 4/19 and nothing yet.

      Order # 8859 - Contacted support but nothing yet..

      Any insight on possible date would be really appreciated.


      Thanks,

      John

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Boltripper View Post
        Anyone know the status of the tundra packs? Purchased a pack for a client on 4/19 and nothing yet.

        Order # 8859 - Contacted support but nothing yet..

        Any insight on possible date would be really appreciated.


        Thanks,

        John

        We are working on getting them out to everyone, but we have to publish this update first as some older Tundra ECUs have a flash error. It's almost done

        Comment


        • Originally posted by VFTuner View Post


          We are working on getting them out to everyone, but we have to publish this update first as some older Tundra ECUs have a flash error. It's almost done
          Thanks so much for the update..

          Best,

          John

          Comment


          • Any update on 20/21 tundra tune yet?

            Comment


            • VFTuner just checking on the ECU swap for my 2021. I know I'm at the top of the list but now that you aren't on Tundras.com not sure where everything stands.

              Comment


              • I understand that the Land Cruiser uses the same ECU (and therefor the same VFTune) as the 5.7 Tundra. Would anyone have an idea if this is the best location to watch for a tune released for a 2018 Land Cruiser (Config File 60T11)?

                Comment


                • Wynnded
                  Wynnded commented
                  Editing a comment
                  When 1.3 releases someone can check to see if that calibration is supported. As of now there's only one, and it's 60T31 STOCK.

              • VFTuner Is there a table available for a 2019 Tundra (89663-OCP50) to control the startup idle air? My tuner said it would be idle air vs coolant temp vs RPMs.

                I am having a startup issue that started as soon as I went to the Harrop stage 2 with new injectors, 1 step colder plugs and 2 sizes smaller pulley. We have gone through and ruled out (as far as I can tell) all mechanical issues. It also looks like the injectors are scaled correctly. They said they are needing the tables to adjust the idle air to account for the increased need at startup. I found this at HP:

                "
                Startup
                The PCM commands extra airflow during engine startup to ensure proper starting. In simple terms the startup airflow adds to the base airflow and decays away to zero as the engine begins running and the adaptive routines start enabling and controlling idle. The startup airflow consists of two components that are added together, Friction Airflow and Startup Airflow.
                • Off Idle Startup Scalar: Amount to reduce startup airflow if an off-idle transition is made during startup airflow decay. This value multiplies the current startup airflow ie. a value of 0.5 would halve the current startup airflow if an off-idle transition occurs during the decay. A value of 1.0 would have no effect, and value of 0.0 would instantly decay the startup airflow to zero if any off-idle transition occurs.
                • Underspeed Time: Transition into adaptive idle (PID) control if no startup flare control has occurred within this time after startup.
                • Friction Airflow Decay: Decay value for startup airflow decay. This value is subtracted from the initial value.
                • Friction Airflow Initial: Initial value for Friction Airflow, decay starts from this value.
                • Friction Airflow Delay: Delay before Friction Airflow starts to decay.
                • Startup Airflow Decay: Decay value for startup airflow decay. This value is subtracted from the initial value.
                • Startup Airflow Initial: Initial value for Friction Airflow, decay starts from this value.
                • Startup Airflow Delay: Delay before Startup Airflow starts to decay.
                • Startup Airflow: Used to control the ETC opening during engine cranking.
                • Idle Startup Airflow vs. ERT vs. ECT: Startup idle airflow value used to control the ETC opening during startup. "
                Do you have anything similar to this?

                Comment


                • In my post above I mentioned an issue with startup. I initially thought is was fuel pressure related since, other than the tune, the fuel system was all that was changed and the symptoms were consistent with fuel pressure. My fuel pressure holds at about 30 PSI after shutoff, and then by 1 - 1.5 hours it is all the way down to 0 PSI. Some say this is not normal and some say that it is fine. I have a stock FPR.

                  After checking everything mechanically, I am thinking that it is something in the tune related to coolant temperature vs. either fuel or air. I (the tuner) has already changed the IPW startup tables, which led him to the idle air table as mentioned above. Can anyone think of anything else that I should check?

                  I was trying to check if the tuner accidenetly made another change, however; I am having some issues with the compare files feature. Is this working for anyone else?

                  For reference, below is a post I put on SC Tundra Facebook trying to solve the issue (when I thought it was fuel related). It describes some of the symptoms.

                  Thanks!

                  "
                  2019 Tundra Harrop stage 2, Nitro 5.29 gears, Dirty Deeds 8”, SABM, dyno tuned using /vF Tuner

                  Basically I have a long crank issue at startup (see videos). The truck starts great after sitting overnight or in cold weather, but if it is much warmer than 40 degrees outside or after driving then starting it again, it starts horribly. If it is having the startup issue and I push on the gas pedal, it will usually get it to start. It seems like it is getting either too much or too little gas. I also just noticed that sometimes after starting the truck, once the 02 sensor heats up, the afr is 18 – 19 for about 30 seconds then drops to 14.7. The AFR is also where it is supposed to be at WOT. It seems the issue is either the fuel system or the tune, but the shop that did the install has not been able to figure it out for over 3 months!

                  These issues started happening after I had a shop install the Harrop “Stage 2” items. They installed DW 650 cc injectors, Harrop 75mm pulley, NGK 1 step colder plugs, and went back to the stock 43.5 PSI fuel pressure regulator, as well as installed a catch can. The also did a dyno tune using OV vF Tuner. When the issues started (immediately after install), they blamed the vF Tuner program and said they couldn’t adjust the cranking and priming Injector Pulse width tables. I have been told that the scaling of the injectors should translate to starting also and that they shouldn’t need to adjust those tables, but nonetheless I asked OV to unlock those tables for the tuner. After adjusting the prime and cranking IPW tables the issue got slightly better, but is still there. It seems like he was chasing another issue with the tune.

                  Prior to going to stage 2, I had been driving the truck for 6 months with stage 1 Harrop kit: DW 300C 340 LPH fuel pump, FPR mod, and no tune. The truck was running great, no issues at all. I am almost tempted to go back, but then I would have wasted a ton of money and time for nothing! The shop suggested it could be a fuel pump issue, but it seems unlikely to me, and deatschwerks when I called, that the fuel pump would have no issues for 6 months and then suddenly have an issue at the same time other mods were made. I am told that the fuel needed with this setup is no where close to maxing out the 340 LPH pump.


                  The shop checked the fuel pressure and here is what they said:

                  “Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge at the supply line to the fuel rail on the driver's side. Proper fuel pressure is achieved when starting the truck, upon shutting the truck off we noticed the pressure drops about 5psi in the first 5-10 minutes. Over a period of about 30-40 minutes, we were down to a total of 5psi at the rail.

                  Not knowing how the fueling is set up, this could be a normal function, but when we typically are doing our builds at the shop and using the DW300c pumps, we shut off the vehicle and fuel pressure is maintained for at least a handful of hours.




                  We then go to cycle the key into the ON position, no fuel priming to bring pressure up. As we begin cranking, it is now trying to prime the system back up to full pressure. We do not know this vehicle well enough to nail down if there is enough fuel during cranking coming in, as it can go to crank and just keeps cranking without firing over. There are times you can do this and turn the key back, then attempt to start again and it fires right up. Then there are the times you attempt to crank, doesn't fire, go to crank again and it's just cranking with no start. Sometimes taking multiple start-up attempts until it starts, or that the smell of raw fuel can be noticed after 4-5 times of nothing but cranking.”

                  -I have been told both that getting down to 5 PSI after 30 minutes is normal and also that it is not normal. Does anyone know if that IS normal, or if I am losing excessive fuel pressure?


                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by realprotundra View Post
                    VFTuner just checking on the ECU swap for my 2021. I know I'm at the top of the list but now that you aren't on Tundras.com not sure where everything stands.
                    VFTuner , I noted that you posted today in some other posts in this Tundra specific forum. I was hoping that I could get an update on my question above regarding the ECU swap.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by ColoradoTundra View Post
                      In my post above I mentioned an issue with startup. I initially thought is was fuel pressure related since, other than the tune, the fuel system was all that was changed and the symptoms were consistent with fuel pressure. My fuel pressure holds at about 30 PSI after shutoff, and then by 1 - 1.5 hours it is all the way down to 0 PSI. Some say this is not normal and some say that it is fine. I have a stock FPR.

                      After checking everything mechanically, I am thinking that it is something in the tune related to coolant temperature vs. either fuel or air. I (the tuner) has already changed the IPW startup tables, which led him to the idle air table as mentioned above. Can anyone think of anything else that I should check?

                      I was trying to check if the tuner accidenetly made another change, however; I am having some issues with the compare files feature. Is this working for anyone else?

                      For reference, below is a post I put on SC Tundra Facebook trying to solve the issue (when I thought it was fuel related). It describes some of the symptoms.

                      Thanks!

                      "
                      2019 Tundra Harrop stage 2, Nitro 5.29 gears, Dirty Deeds 8”, SABM, dyno tuned using /vF Tuner

                      Basically I have a long crank issue at startup (see videos). The truck starts great after sitting overnight or in cold weather, but if it is much warmer than 40 degrees outside or after driving then starting it again, it starts horribly. If it is having the startup issue and I push on the gas pedal, it will usually get it to start. It seems like it is getting either too much or too little gas. I also just noticed that sometimes after starting the truck, once the 02 sensor heats up, the afr is 18 – 19 for about 30 seconds then drops to 14.7. The AFR is also where it is supposed to be at WOT. It seems the issue is either the fuel system or the tune, but the shop that did the install has not been able to figure it out for over 3 months!

                      These issues started happening after I had a shop install the Harrop “Stage 2” items. They installed DW 650 cc injectors, Harrop 75mm pulley, NGK 1 step colder plugs, and went back to the stock 43.5 PSI fuel pressure regulator, as well as installed a catch can. The also did a dyno tune using OV vF Tuner. When the issues started (immediately after install), they blamed the vF Tuner program and said they couldn’t adjust the cranking and priming Injector Pulse width tables. I have been told that the scaling of the injectors should translate to starting also and that they shouldn’t need to adjust those tables, but nonetheless I asked OV to unlock those tables for the tuner. After adjusting the prime and cranking IPW tables the issue got slightly better, but is still there. It seems like he was chasing another issue with the tune.

                      Prior to going to stage 2, I had been driving the truck for 6 months with stage 1 Harrop kit: DW 300C 340 LPH fuel pump, FPR mod, and no tune. The truck was running great, no issues at all. I am almost tempted to go back, but then I would have wasted a ton of money and time for nothing! The shop suggested it could be a fuel pump issue, but it seems unlikely to me, and deatschwerks when I called, that the fuel pump would have no issues for 6 months and then suddenly have an issue at the same time other mods were made. I am told that the fuel needed with this setup is no where close to maxing out the 340 LPH pump.


                      The shop checked the fuel pressure and here is what they said:

                      “Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge at the supply line to the fuel rail on the driver's side. Proper fuel pressure is achieved when starting the truck, upon shutting the truck off we noticed the pressure drops about 5psi in the first 5-10 minutes. Over a period of about 30-40 minutes, we were down to a total of 5psi at the rail.

                      Not knowing how the fueling is set up, this could be a normal function, but when we typically are doing our builds at the shop and using the DW300c pumps, we shut off the vehicle and fuel pressure is maintained for at least a handful of hours.




                      We then go to cycle the key into the ON position, no fuel priming to bring pressure up. As we begin cranking, it is now trying to prime the system back up to full pressure. We do not know this vehicle well enough to nail down if there is enough fuel during cranking coming in, as it can go to crank and just keeps cranking without firing over. There are times you can do this and turn the key back, then attempt to start again and it fires right up. Then there are the times you attempt to crank, doesn't fire, go to crank again and it's just cranking with no start. Sometimes taking multiple start-up attempts until it starts, or that the smell of raw fuel can be noticed after 4-5 times of nothing but cranking.”

                      -I have been told both that getting down to 5 PSI after 30 minutes is normal and also that it is not normal. Does anyone know if that IS normal, or if I am losing excessive fuel pressure?




                      Okay so lets review a few things. Because some of these shops just find an easy excuse and blame the software.

                      1. Did they read our Supercharger Tuning guide? We literally posted the exact Injector value to use with DW 650cc injectors. Immediate and perfect start up on our test truck every time, even without touching the cranking IPW tables.

                      2. Who is the shop doing the tuning?

                      3. I don't think your fuel pressure issue is normal. It should maintain some pressure for a while, and it should prime immediately with cranking.




                      We can add airflow / idle tables yes. I don't think that's the issue. I've personally tuned 2018+ trucks on harrop stage 1 and above with 650cc injectors and never touched half the tables you're talking about.


                      For example our R/D FFV Truck with a harrop kit, 650cc injectors, which we wrote a tuning guide for and basically gave out what to do, starts, runs, drives perfect on those settings in our tuning PDF.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by realprotundra View Post

                        VFTuner , I noted that you posted today in some other posts in this Tundra specific forum. I was hoping that I could get an update on my question above regarding the ECU swap.
                        We would be providing this in July after we finalize and release 1.3.0

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by VFTuner View Post

                          We would be providing this in July after we finalize and release 1.3.0
                          Great! Looking forward to it!

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by VFTuner View Post




                            Okay so lets review a few things. Because some of these shops just find an easy excuse and blame the software.

                            1. Did they read our Supercharger Tuning guide? We literally posted the exact Injector value to use with DW 650cc injectors. Immediate and perfect start up on our test truck every time, even without touching the cranking IPW tables.

                            2. Who is the shop doing the tuning?

                            3. I don't think your fuel pressure issue is normal. It should maintain some pressure for a while, and it should prime immediately with cranking.




                            We can add airflow / idle tables yes. I don't think that's the issue. I've personally tuned 2018+ trucks on harrop stage 1 and above with 650cc injectors and never touched half the tables you're talking about.


                            For example our R/D FFV Truck with a harrop kit, 650cc injectors, which we wrote a tuning guide for and basically gave out what to do, starts, runs, drives perfect on those settings in our tuning PDF.
                            Any help would be greatly appreciated! This has been going on since January and the truck has good power, just the startup issue. We, as well the the tuning shop MoFab, emailed back and forth with you a little over support tickets in Feb - March, but I eventually took my truck back and started trying to figure out the issue myself as they were not able to figure it out.

                            It is so weird, the truck starts perfectly at the first cold start of the day, or also when we had really cold temperatures here in CO. It is when it is warmed up on re-starts that there is an issue, which made me think it was something to do with one of the table that referenced coolant temperature.

                            1. Did they read our Supercharger Tuning guide? We literally posted the exact Injector value to use with DW 650cc injectors. Immediate and perfect start up on our test truck every time, even without touching the cranking IPW tables.

                            When this started in January, I don't think the guide was available. Right now I can only pull up the FFV tuning guide that shows 260 base flow, I am not on my tuning computer so I can look into the program files. Is there a non- FFV tuning guide as well? Or does 260 apply to DW 650cc injectors in non-flex fuel also?

                            Right now the tune is set at Port Injector Base Flow 232.xxx and the minimum pulse width is set at 0.3. I do see the note that normally the injector pulse width does not need to be modified, could that be my issue?

                            My WOT AFR seems correct between 10.5 - 11.


                            2. Who is the shop doing the tuning?

                            MoFab LLC in Parker, CO: https://g.page/MOFAB-LLC?share https://www.mo-fab.com/ - Throughout my research, they seemed to be the most reputable shop in my area and have many good reviews going back 18 years with the same tuner. I spoke with them for 4 months before bringing the truck there as they were initially hesitant to use anything other than HPTuners.

                            The truck made great power and cold starts or immediate warm re-starts at the shop were all great. The dyno numbers were great also. When I went to pick it up, after it was sitting for a while, but still warm, is when the startup issue was happening. You are correct, they immediately blamed the program and asked for cranking and priming IPW tables, which you quickly added for us. I didn't think those were the issue, since no other shop had to change those. Looking at MoFab's changes, it looks like they lowered the IPW for warmer coolant temps, which helped in certain temp ranges, but not others. They were thinking it was getting too much gas. I have since copied and passed all the prime and crank IPW table back to the stock tables.

                            After looking at the tune and testing fuel for 3 weeks, they gave me a very small refund and were no longer able to help.

                            I did call Running 4 Tacos since they are on your tuning list, but they said they were not ready yet to do a stage 2 dyno tune.


                            3. I don't think your fuel pressure issue is normal. It should maintain some pressure for a while, and it should prime immediately with cranking.

                            I installed a fuel gauge and started looking into fuel issues. I replaced the injectors with a new set of DW 650 cc, as well as another new OEM FPR (OEM 43.5 PSI regulator boost referenced to TVS2650. With vacuum, fuel pressure at idle is 34 PSI), as those were the only fuel items that were changed before the issue started happening. I did not think it was the fuel pump because I had been using the 300c for 6 months at that point with no issues.

                            From my recent monitoring, the pressure holds at 30 PSI after shutoff and then bleeds off to 0 within the next hour or so pretty linearly. When I start cranking, the pressure does immediately go back up to 34 PSI. I was thinking this was the issue since I have been told the fuel system should hold pressure for days, however; DeatschWerks said that during bench testing most pumps are down to 5 PSI within a couple hours, so mine may not be that out of spec since it is holding at 30 PSI for 30 minutes or so. The Toyota service manual only shows that it needs to be above 20 PSI 5 min after shutoff, so I dont know exactly what it should be over a longer timeframe.

                            Recently, I have mainly only had brief hesitation while starting when the coolant temp is hot and the fuel pressure has dropped to 0. It starts, almost seems to pause for a second, then the RPM's increase and it runs fine. I was still thinking this was a fuel pressure issue and was planning on paying a shop to replace the fuel pump in case it is the check valve going bad. HOWEVER, there have been 3-4 times where I shut the truck off for 5 min or so and then when I restart it has the very bad long crank issue that I was talking about. In these instances, the fuel pressure was still holding at 30 PSI, and hadn't bleed off yet, when I went to start the truck. Since it still had pressure, but was still having the long crank issue, I just recently started looking back towards a tune issue vs. mechanical.


                            I had another tuner look at the file briefly and he said he didn't see anything strange, but he did say that sometimes he has to increase idle airflow tables to compensate. He said a good way to test if this would help the issue was to hold the throttle down a little, maybe 10 - 20%, while starting to see if I still had the issue. If holding the throttle helped the startup issue, then he said adding idle air could possibly fix it. Lately I have been starting the truck at warm starts holding the pedal and then immediately letting off once I see RPM's (or else it will rev up), and it seems to help the issue.

                            Is there anything else in the tune that I should be looking at before idle air? Since it starts perfect the first cold start of the day, I was trying to look into all the tables that reference coolant temp.

                            Thank you so much for any help!

                            Comment

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